Friday, October 11, 2013

Initial Impression: Kabuto (Las Vegas, NV)

Edomae Sushi

Call it what you want..
an desert oasis?
a piece of heaven; or a secret sushi speakeasy?
whatever..  just be prepared to be amazed at the unabashed temple of sushi, in a town with endless and overpriced dinning options this is truly a hidden gem.  NO AYCE HERE. (just saying).
This place looks like it was entirely imported from Japan with every detail en-tact. ワウ! Once I'm in I was speechlessly impressed by what I'm seeing, smelling, and drooling over what I'm about to consume.

As always, especially at the time we went (EDC weekend) chaos and the desert heat was at a high outside.  Luckily, this place is unaffected.  Las Vegas Japanese empire builder Takashi Segawa(owner of Monta, Goyemon and Sushi Mon) did an above excellent job in bringing its diners a piece of Japanese zen into the hustle and bustle of LV.  Everything from the decor to the lighting to the food was in perfect flow.  Although, it can be intimidating, the seriousness of the chef added a voucher for authenticity. But no need to worry, the craftsmanship of the food speaks for itself and overall I was very much at ease at all times and enjoyed a relaxed meal throughout. 


Aperitif: Homemade 6 month aged fruit sake
I understand sake might not be everyones choice of alcoholic beverage. But here the chef captures the essence of sake but made it fun and refreshing for everyones enjoyment. かんぱい  You can barely taste the alcohol considering its less than 4%.  A great way to set the mood for this epic Japanese meal.

Miso Soup with fish & bones
This course was ordered a la carte.  You get a choice between fish or mushroom. My dining companion and I chose fish and my gf have chosen the later.  Overall lots of the umami flavor but the fish was a bit hard to eat with more bones than meat, and my companion even got a piece of bone wedged between his teeth that almost ruined his entire meal early on. Also after tasting my gf's soup the mushroom option would be a better choice if I would pick again.


Since we already had some sake to start and the selection seemed a tad limited.  Fortunately, I brought something more on the celebratory side and decided to go with our own beverage of choice, Champagne. What a heavenly pairing. The 2002 vintage of Dom Pérignon smelled like a bouquet of spring flowers and honey. First time having D.P. so my expectation is set as high as the price.  Pale yellow in color the first few sips fizzed like a fountain of mineral water, very lean and crisp yet amazingly well structured. The lemon zest turned somewhat creamy, almost lemon pie like, as it opened up in the glass.  Certainly, I am no wine expert but in my opinion this is a bubbly still well in its youth and would develop more complexity over many years to come. My initial experience is definitely a pleasant one and somewhat justifies its above average price. 


After all, we are in Vegas so only a bottle of Dom seems appropriate for the night and the meal. 
Starter: Jack Mackerel, Japanese Cucumber, Seaweed pickled with Sweet Rice Vinegar



Drooling.. Just from looking at all that amazing selection of fish flown fresh daily from Japan and around the world.

The SHUT UP & EAT plate is placed in front of us.
From this point on a parade of fish would come our way and into our stomachs. Thier ginger is on point too. Don't be afraid to ask for seconds if you munched it all before the fish comes.

Nigiri:

Kochi (Flathead)


Mejina (Opal Eye)
An unanimous favorite of the night.

Yagara (Cornet)

Ma-Aji (Jack Mackerel)

Blue Fin Tuna from Spain

Chu Toro (Medium Fatty Tuna)

Live Hotate (Scallop)

Ikura (Salmon Roe)
I'm not a big fan of fish roe, but somehow this was an opinion changer and a palate opener.  The flavor was mild and delicate.  and the rice and tiny tab of fresh wasabi balanced our the few scoopful of brainy goodness. Yum.

Gyoku (Sweet Omelet)
The burnt signature was a nice touch.  This was my first time trying this variation of tamagoyaki.  To my surprise it tasted less eggy and more like a sweet rice pastry.  This signs an end to our omakase courses, but given a list of Kabuto's daily specials and when the chef asks us what we like.. We all looked back with a naughty grin. Our second meal begins now.

Anago (Sweet Freshwater Eel)
This was my second time having Anago, and my best yet.  Subtle and delicate.  I actually liked it much more than its cousin the Unagi. The sauce was a bit bitter but it draws out the subtle flavors of the fish further.

Uni
This was an exemplary piece of uni which came from Santa Barbara.  Best damn uni I had, ever. Subtle sweetness, Creamy but not mushy texture, and a splash of brainy seawater was everything I could ask for out of this ridiculously delicious piece of seafood. 


O Toro (Premium Fatty Tuna)
To be honest after eating all the different variation of fatty tuna from medium to ultra fatty I feel like the higher grade you go the higher the chance of missing the mark.  And what I mean by that is Chu toro is already a cut above the rest. But as consumers or foodies we always want the best.  So we sometimes pay more to get the next level up. Sure the 'O' and 'Kama' is a rarity of delicacy but the cuts aren't always worth the price you pay for.  I know this might sound a bit ironic or hypocrite of me to say this but if you are on a budget and want some premium melt in your mouth goodness go for the chu-toro. It's more bang for your bucks and for once you can willingly choose quantity over quality.

Kamashita (special grade fatty tuna)
Now forget what I said earlier and feast your thoughts on this. This is a real treat! Sushi fan knows how special this is and its a must order to a seasoned eater. Not often this cut of fish lands on the menu, if you ever do see it go for it and its well worth the splurge to get a taste of this. You won't be disappointed.

Negitoro Handroll
The negitoro was a classic, and the one at Kabuto is not any different.  The soy sauce that came with it was definitely unique and something they put on top all their nigiri pieces. A little bit goes a long way. I would love to take home a bottle of that sauce.

Fresh Matcha Tea



After we finished eating the wait staff was so careful in observing its patrons.  The below wet towel was only giving to those that use there hands to eat the nigiri sushi.  On top of that the towel was left on the side of whichever hand you used. Coincidence? or attention to details!
Dessert:
Layered Strawberry Crepe
You get a choice of some sort of fruit sorbet, I think watermelon was the choice that night, or this wonderful crepe cake. This should really be there signature dessert if they ever decide on one.  Better than some of the best I had at any establishment.  Usually American restaurants reigns supreme when it comes to indulgent after dinner sweet toothed treats but this japanese restaurant will make anyone with that assumption do a double take. Kabuto made something simple standout way beyond its stereotype.

All aspect accounted for, from our first sip of sake to the last bite of dessert it was true bliss.  I reached a complete zen leaving my thoughts, stomach and later my wallet in complete happiness.  Definitely hit the jackpot on the vegas sushi slot.  Winning!


Reservation: 4/6 Not so difficult to secure but moderately strict on changes 
Food: 5/6
Service: 5/6 So want to give it a perfect score but here is why I didn't.  My gf overheard the head chef speaking to the apprentice chefs in a very condescending manner.  It was almost embarrassing to those that understood japanese and can definitely take away from the experience. On the other hand the wait staff was 100% professional. They paid attention to the smallest detail and water and wine was constantly filled. 
Ambiance/Decor: 5/6 minimalist and authentic
Value: 5/6
$: $80-$120/pp
Overall: 24/30



Monday, May 20, 2013

Initial Impression: Kaito Sushi

"Irasshaimase!"


San Diego, like San Fran it is right off the coast but both unlike Los Angeles its not much of a old-school sushi town but nonetheless its still flooded with plenty of Americanized cali-roll centric sushi joints.  SD being a coastal town offers an abundance of sea life and when life gives you lots of good fresh seafood what do you do? You eat it raw of course.

Mentioned in my previous post, Sushi Ota was my virgin omakase experience and it was them, who opened my can of warm to search and demand for high-end sushi.  The most yelp-beloved SD sushi joint and certainly the most well known among SD natives or religious yelpers will always have a special place in my stomach.  But I do have to be honest, my feelings for the place is still uncertain, given I only visited once.  However, I do confirm Ota does somehow give off a touristy and hype driven vibe. Maybe its the location, the wait line, the price value and or the demographic of diners.. Who knows? It certainty satisfy me enough for a return trip in the distant future.

A local buddy of mine that has never been to Ota mentioned that I should try Kaito Sushi in Encinitas.  Kaito is a well-regarded authentic sushi place, and a favorite among locals around the area. 5 years since it opened in its current location it still keeps a low profile, and I never heard about it until now.  Located 30 minutes north of downtown or central SD it was both a drive and also given other conflicting circumstances I never got a chance to go out until now.

The exterior
Located in a large grocery store plaza. The place is intimate, minimal, but very fitting to the food it serves. The sushi bar takes up 70% of the restaurant and only a handful of small tables lean against the side wall to accommodate families with kids or the bar intimated.  From the layout it was a great sign, It meant that it's going to be personal and authentic experience right with the chef himself.  Given some tips we arrived early so we would be guaranteed the entire selection of fish available for that day.

The Food: 



To Start: Sunomono, Gari, Fresh Wasabi
Sunomono is basically housemade appetizer using vegetables and/or seafood that are seasoned with vinegar based dressings. Its a refreshing start to a Japanese meal like an amuse to the french. Also worthy of mentioning the Gari or the pickled ginger is on point and one of the better ones I tasted.

1st Tipple:
To most westerners and modern food critics, besides the usual sakes and Japanese beers, that champagne and sushi are made for each other.  So to wet our palate, we naturally went with a champagne that I brought from my personal collection.  Duval-Leroy's Clos Des Bouveries, Brut, 2005 vintage ($60). Arguably its currently one of the best value on the champagne market.  Trust me, you'll get a crap load of bang for your bucks here.  So far, its unlike any champagne I’ve ever had. (although haven't had that much yet). It’s fermented in oak, and it carries a ton of structure and some typical toasted bread flavor. But it’s hardly oppressive. Indeed, the wine is brimming with fruit aromatics, it feels quite lively and crisp, and brace yourself for an extended finish.  It glows in the glass, almost like a Riesling. Very interesting stuff, especially when one considers paying $45 for some meh, Veuve Cliquot. Sorry buddy had to call you out.

1. Hirame (fluke) Shiso leaf, Green puree, Himalayan pink salt
The chef wasted no time at showing us his skills and the freshest ingredients.  This was my first time with Hirame but no doubt it was a memorable one.  The visual presentation captivated our attention and left a symphony of flavors in our mouth.  Fluke is usually bland on its own so Kazu-san grated fresh Himalayan salt over,  it definitely pushed forth the hidden flavors of the fish.  The green strip of shiso leaf and a tiny dab of lime yuzu kosho up top added the magical touch that just hit all the right notes.  So wonderfully complex and all worked out harmoniously together.

2. Chu-Toro
The highlight of a superb sushi meal right in front of our eyes. 2 pieces=2 orgasms. Tuna belly was just what I needed, conveying an unabashedly soft, melt-y consistency. The fish melted right in my mouth and into my soul. The End.

3. Ika (Squid) Shiso, Ikura, Ginger
Long pause..okay back to earth from the heavenly pieces of Toro.  Whats next? Squid, the chef said. I'm actually not a big fan of Ika.  It's too rich, boring and has a weird mouth-feel.  But Kazu -san manage to pull out some tricks to help balance out the heaviness of the squid.  He topped it off with a few salty and savory ikura, grated ginger and a refreshing strip of shiso leaf as we seen with the Hirame.  Overall, it went down pretty easy and had a pleasant creamy finish.

4. Aoyagi Sashimi (Orange Clam)
I had cooked orange clams before at some Chinese seafood restaurant.  I think they refer it to as surf clams or in Japanese hokigai, not sure if the two are similar or the same when it comes to sushi terms? Anyways, I loved the texture, snappy and firm. What I loved even more was its delicate flavors.  The taste of ocean sprinkled with some rock sugar. Yum!  The natural sweetness of the clam really shine through.  Fresh, fun and too easy to eat made this a table favorite. We wanted more.

5. Magurozuke (marinated tuna) Yamaimo, Daikon Sprouts
This piece of fish was my favorite of the night. I had maguro by itself countless times in the past, but this was my first time having it marinated in a soy based sauce along with the additional condiments.  Kazu-san was genius in choosing to use yamaimo (mountain yam). It played a splendid role in balancing texture and flavor.  The daikon sprouts also added a refreshing touch to offset the fatty and flavor soaked fish. Delicious. 

 6. Kohada Maki (gizzard shad)
Kohada is something I did have once prior to eating it here at Kaito, but certainly not in this form.  This version was good and I love the nori but the fish was really muted and overpowered by other elements inside the maki rolls(wasabi, shiso leaf, etc.) I would have like to taste the Kohada more.
At this point, I did wish that shiso leaf wasn't the common ingredient in most of the pieces of sushi we had so far.

 7. Uni (sea urchine)
There's something very sinister about eating uni.  It's moist, briny, gooey, flesh like texture. 'Just look at it.'  The only way to eat it is to put the entire thing in your mouth all at once. Mmm! This version here is a bit more overwhelming on the brine-y side. Too much for my taste.  It made us question the freshness on the uni for a second. My dinning partners was intimated by it and had a hard time finishing the large pieces.
What's the cholesterol count on these things? Who cares..life is much better with it.


8. Sayori (needle fish)
Another first for me.  Kazu-san decided that sashimi Sayori was the way to go.  For such a small fish it was actually a very painstaking process to get about 6 thin pieces of meat out.  The needle fish had a mild flavor, with a nice crunch.  If available I'd def give it another shot next time.


2nd Tipple:
junmai daiginjo? how old are you? you spoiled brat! HAHA..
With our Champagne dispensed it's time to move on to the traditional sushi matching beverages.  We ordered a tall Sapporo(not pictured) and two glasses of mid-grade sake. All had a pretty decent flavor profile.

9.  Unagi (freshwater eel)
This was our first cooked sushi. Unagi are fatty in texture, rich in flavor and has a lush mouth-feel. I tired a piece of my dining partners. and it was a prototypical example of what it should taste like. The nori and sprinkled spice adds a nice contrast flavor and texture.


10. Anago and Spine (saltwater eel)
The girls ordered unagi and the guys got anago, fair enough.
Anago are cousins to Unagi, ones salt and ones freshwater.  In contrast to the unagi, typically its going to be leaner, with a slightly cleaner, lighter flavor. Bottom-line its personal preference between the two.  Also on the plate was a unique much talked about Kaito treat, eel spine.  Deep fried to a crisp, in my opinion perfect 'beer snack'.


11.Kanpachi Carpaccio
Before we rack up a damage that we'll regret and spoil our experience we decided as a group to opt for one more dish or fish in this case to close it out.  We ended the night with Kazu-san's twist on a Italian classic, carpaccio.  The funny thing was it tasted nothing like what we expected and definitely more Spanish influence than anything.  It felt, if almost life I eating something out of a tostada bowl.  It could easily be Kaito's signature dish.  Didn't care too much what's in it but it work. Kampachi's texture balanced perfectly with the lemon. Light, refreshing and a fiesta in my mouth we went out in a happy mood.

Conclusion/Verdict:

Kaito is a top end competitor in the San Diego sushi scene. Nothing too special indeed but I admire the hype-less attitude and the unpretentious. Matter fact, I think they are pretty on par to many high-profile sushi places in the OC and LA area. Go open minded and pretend your joining a friend for a meal; drink a bit, laugh a bit and have a great time.
The biggest surprise to us was perhaps the bill. Our damage for the night was $256.40. (4 omakase+corkage fee+2 glasses of sake+a cold one) Which rather was relatively low at a establishment like such. Maybe we should have ordered more.  I adore Kazu-san's sense of humor. witty and daring.  We came somewhat intimidated but left feeling we were welcomed and wanted. All content, and seeking a return trip in the future to see what else Kaito and Kazu-san have to offer. 

Kanpai.


130-A N El Camino Real
Encinitas, CA 92024
(760) 634-2746
http://www.kaitorestaurant.net/

Dining date and time: May 2, 2013; 5:30pm-7:20pm

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Redefin·ning: Sushi Ota

This section of my blog is dedicated to good eats, dining, or particular food related events in my personal life worthy to be reminisced. A chapter somewhere in my life that shaped and formed who I am today. A game changer. A eye opener.  Ahhh!! All so unforgettable. I apologize now that some of these recollections might not have images(or low quality ones), vague descriptions, or blur remembrances.  But it is my account of what happened so take it in as is.  Please leave me a polite feedback or a correction if any factual error appears. 

お任せ ..utter those magical words and open sushi-me you go


Oh-mah-kah-say.  That is what the above Japanese character loosely translates into, it means that you entrust your chef with your meal.  Wise words from a smart women:" When your traveling to a place unknown and you are hungry for ethnic food.  Japanese cuisine should always be your default chow."

Now back to the food and the place; Sushi Ota, Located right next to a 7-eleven and Planned Parenthood in Pacific Beach area of San Diego.  You would never think an award winning top-rated restaurant would reside nested between the two and actually be any good, but assumptions be gone, this place is DAMN good! After a 2.5 hour long meal here my palate changed for the better because now I know the difference between just okay and exceptionally oishii(delicious/very tasty) sushi.

This sort of place is what I define as California Japanese fusion.  What is Cali-Japan fusion you might ask? To me it is a cross between quality authentic Edo-style sushi and creative, sometime outrages offensive, California roll-style sushi.  As always the best sushi in America are still found/located in some nondescript mall in a seedy part of town.  In which it's certain, with their unattractive exterior appearances they have to represent with the quality and caliber of their food.

Fortunately for me,  my personal experience with sushi started a fairly young age. My mom, convinced by my aunt, turned from eating from well-well done cooked meat to raw fish.  To my acknowledgment they found the flavors and textures quite satisfying.  Although, my family loves quality sushi it is still very much a luxury to dine out at a nice Japanese restaurant. Rest assured Japanese food is NOT cheap.  From high cost ingredients to the chefs' highly trained craftsmanship its a given to be pricey affair. I broke down the average price range for a meal at a decent Japanese restaurant, and for a party of two dining in and ordering à la carte it would cost around the realms of $30(inclusive of tip and tax excluding alcohol). But if you sit at the bar and order omakase it would set you back from a not-to unreasonable $70-90 a person to the shockingly ridiculous $450/pp MASA in NYC.


The Food: 

Plate 1: Starter (2 squid salad) 

Hotaruika(firefly squid) and Ika(white squid) mixed with spring veggie

Plate 2a: Raw

Assorted Sashimi Plate (hamachi, chu-toro, sweet shrimp, uni)

Plate 2b: Fried Treat

Fried head treat from the sweet shrimp on the sashimi plate accompanied with some momiji oroshi

Plate 3: Tempura Vegetable 

Tempura yamaimo and sayaingen with wasabi powder

Plate 4: Grilled and Fried

King crab leg(center), Local vegetables(bottom left),Tempura takenoko(bamboo shoot)(Top left),
Grilled half-dried Spanish mackerel. Saba?(bottom right)

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Fierce Swig: Craft&Commerce

Spring is HERE!

 ..Where? at Craft and Commerce(C&C) at least. C&C debuts there new and revamped cocktail menu for the spring season.  This is exciting since I'm always a fan of there drink program.  Actually, now I can officially recommend this place to my friends as my unofficial GO-to spot for DTSD craft cocktails.. I visited C&C a handful of time and every time I'm there I leave pretty darn satisfy to say the least. Good eats, great drinks and a perfect social atmosphere; what more can I ask.

Since I'm here to write about the new drink menu I'll spare you the drool and skip the food and head straight to the liquid goodness. But just a inside tip: If you ever need anything to soak up the alchie, do yourself a favor and order the corndog, fries or mac and cheese with a side order of sriracha..Cha!